Form Follows Function

Chouinard 

No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile…

We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.

Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.

There is a word for it, and the word is clean. Climbing with only nuts and runners for protection is clean climbing. Clean because the rock is left unaltered by the passing climber. Clean because nothing is hammered into the rock and then hammered back out, leaving the rock scarred and next climber’s experience less natural. Clean is climbing the rock without changing it; a step closer to organic climbing for the natural man.

Doug Robinson

Chouinard Equipment Catalog 1972.

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Moving Equipment 

Chouinard 

The Chouinard Equipment crew assembled in front of the Tin Shed, c. 1968 (from left to right): Tony Jesson (who used to play chess with writer Henry Miller), Yvon Chouinard (“S” for “supervisor”?), Terry King, Dennis Hennek, Dorene Frost, Tom Frost (Chouinard Equipment’s co-owner), Merle (last name alas forgotten), and Davey Agnew about to sweep clean. We’re not sure when the Tin Shed was built, but Yvon Chouinard first rented it in 1966. It was used until the late ‘70’s, when Chouinard Equipment moved into new (and less drafty) headquarters on the same property.

Photo: Patagonia Historical Archives

From 1957 to 1964, Chouinard and friends forged the Lost Arrow piton entirely by hand. This board shows the Lost Arrow in various stages of production - from raw stock at right to finished product at left.

Photo: Patagonia Historical Archives

Up to his ass in Bongs. Dennis Hennek, c. 1966, inspecting Chouinard Equipment’s largest pitons. The holes drilled in aluminum Bongs further reduced their weight.

Photo: Patagonia Historical Archives

Yvon Chouinard working the drop hammer, c. 1966.

Photo: Patagonia Historical Archives

Yvon Chouinard forging the head of an alpine hammer, c. 1966. The quality had to be perfect: customers were friends or friends of friends, and in dicey weather or on difficult terrain gear failure could be life threatening.

Photo: Patagonia Historical Archives